JeffCo Master Gardeners
Time 2021-10-30 21:04:04Web Name: JeffCo Master Gardeners
WebSite: http://jeffcogardener.blogspot.com
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keywords: description: JeffCo Master GardenersColorado Master Gardener Volunteers gardening and blogging in Jefferson County Colorado. We work at the CSU Extension Office at the Jefferson County Fairgrounds. Call 303-271-6620 or e-mail your questions to mastergardener@jeffco.us
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BacklinkTotal Pageviews Thursday, October 28, 2021 This little-known fruit can be grown at different altitudes by Ed PowersCourtesy: Baker Creek Seeds
This last summer (2021) was the most amazing and most successful in my Garden to date. I learned many new things about how to protect my Gardens and some new vegetables that grow in our area. I would like to focus on one of those vegetables that I grew. They are Physalis pruinose - common name Ground Cherry Tomato. They are flowering plants in the Nightshade group and close relatives of tomatoes, Chinese Lanterns and Tomatillos. They grow in warm temperate and subtropical regions of the world.
Photo: Ed Powers
Most of the species, of which 7590 may exist, are indigenous to the Americas. Since ground cherries are native to Mexico and Central America they are usually grown as an annual here in the US. A notable feature is the formation of a large, papery husk derived from the calyx, which partly or fully encloses the fruit. The fruit is small and yellow to orange, similar in size, shape, and structure to a small tomato. All are started just like tomatoes and are super easy to grow; they do not need to be staked! The Physalis varieties store extremely well when kept in their protective husks, lasting for quite some time under refrigeration. They are used fresh or cooked, and are juicy and sweet. Husk cherries are grown in the same manner as tomatillos.
My Ground Cherry tomatoes produced fruit from late June to Early October. I live at 8,000 feet and find tomatoes hard to grow. The plant continued to grow and produced fruit until the first hard frost in October. I will plant these seeds next year and enjoy watching them produce fruit.
Photo: Ed Powers
Tips for How to Grow Ground Cherries
1. Ground cherries are well suited for zones 4 and higher, but are frost sensitive. They will do best if started indoors 6-8 weeks before your last frost date. The seeds may be slow to germinate so be patient and be sure to harden off the transplants before planting outdoors.
2. Planting your ground cherries at the right time will help ensure success. Plant at the same time as you would for tomatoes and tomatillos.
3. Raised beds and containers are good choices for growing ground cherries. They are heavy feeders and require rich soil apply a balanced organize fertilizer if needed.
4. They should be planted deeply similar to tomatoes and tomatillos as they will grow roots all along their stems. And, allow 2-3 feet between each plant.
5. Dont let your plants dry out they need regular water to grow well, otherwise they will drop their blossoms rather than setting fruit. Mulching around the plants will help retain moisture.
6. Ground cherries harvest themselves when they are ripe and will fall off the plant to the ground.
7. Storage can be increased by leaving the husks intact and storing in a mesh bag in a cool location (about 50º).
8. Ground cherries can be used in a variety of ways (remove husk first) they are delicious fresh, in jam, pies, salsa and sauces.
9. Look for different varieties and note their growing days from transplant to harvest. Some to look for: Pineapple, Goldie, Aunt Mollys, and New Hanover
Courtesy: Good Housekeeping
NOTES:
1. If growing your ground cherries in containers, choose one that is at least 8 inches deep with a good quality potting mix
2. For square foot gardening allow at least 4 squares (22) per plant
I look forward to next spring when I may have some volunteer Ground Cherry Plants and I will also be planting seed early indoors.Photo: Ed Powers
References:
University of Minnesota-growing-ground-cherries
Growing in the Garden MagazineSmithsonian Magazine-Eating-Ground-CherriesEco-Globe-A-Little-Known-Plant
Labels:Ed Powers,Ground Cherries,Tips for Growing Ground Cherries Monday, October 25, 2021 Durango Botanic Gardens by Nancy Shepard
All pictures by Nancy Shepard
On a recent trip to southern Colorado, I stopped in to theDurango Botanic Gardens. Despite the late growing season in October, I was pleasantlysurprised at what they have created. The first garden, the LibraryDemonstration Garden, was built in 2011 when a handful of community-mindedcitizens began reimagining and repurposing an unsightly, weedy area behind thelibrary into a Plant Select Demonstration Garden.
Plant Select is a non-profit collaboration of ColoradoState University, Denver Botanic Gardens, and professional horticulturists. Asa Plant Select Demonstration Garden, Durango Botanic Gardens trials newplants, reports back results, and when Plant Select issues new plants tonurseries around the region, they are tested here in Durangos challenginggrowing climate.
I think its location makes it even more beautiful because itsbuilt around sidewalks and hard-scaping that was already part of the libraryproperty. In other words, they didnt have a lot of choices with the groundthey had to work with. And this is what makes it so special.
I was also impressed in how they used rocks and boulders toset off the plant specimens and included various sculptures to maintaininterest even in winter.
Since building the Library Demonstration Garden new gardenfeatures are added constantly.
They recently put in a Crevice, or Rock Garden, on the easternpart of the gardens at the edge of the Animas River Trail. The Crevice featuresa garden with a variety of ornamental grasses, a miniature conifer and treegarden, and a small arboretum.
There are two other small gardens built into the main garden.Near the center of the gardens, there is a working sundial that features a differentkind of thyme (the herb) in each of the hourly segments.
And while the time of year made the roses look wilted, theRosie-the-Riveter Rose Garden, is a tribute to the contributions andinfluence of women in the WWII effort. This rose garden on the western portionof the area was planted with a number of Knockout Roses from the Durangochapter of National Spirit of 45.
Labels:botanic garden,crevice,demonstration garden,Durango,herb garden,Plant Select,rock garden,sculpture Thursday, October 21, 2021 Autumn Décor from Your Own Backyard by Nancy ShepardWith Octobers cooler evenings and my garden slowly retreating,I cruised the hobby and craft stores looking for autumn decorations. My grandchildrenlive far away so pumpkins, ghouls and corn stalks didnt interest me this year.Just something that looks natural I said to myself as I looked over all thefuax flowers and leaves with their neon bright oranges and yellows. The stores evenhave some made to look nearly dead to convince you it looks like real autumn. I leftempty handed.But as soon as I got home, I realized I had everything Ineeded in my own yard, almost all of them past their prime but still lookingregal.
Purple Fountain grass
(Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum)This plant is grown as an annual here in Colorado but reaches its prime at the end of summer and the beginning of fall with large purple plumes.
Silver Sage Salvia (Argentea)In addition to very large fuzzy leaves in the summer with long stems of white flowers, it continues to have magnificent dried stalks in the fall.
Left: in its prime, Right: in the fall
Dark Towers Hybrid Beardtongue
(Penstemon 'Dark Towers')
After giving such a magnificent show this summer, I didn't expect this penstemon to deliver again, but the seed heads were a perfect purplish red for a vase.Penstemon 'Dark Towers"
Left: in its prime, Right: in the fallKarl Foerster Feather Reed Grass
(Calamagrostisacutiflora)
As ubiquitous as it is in commercial landscaping, this grass (and all our perennial grasses) make a striking fall dried arrangement.Blue Flax (Linum lewisii)
Blue Flax (Linum lewisii)
Left: in summer, Right: in fall
Even after its blue flowers are gone, the blue flax has little seed heads that are a nice filler.
Pink Yarrow (Achillea millefolium "Oertel's Rose")
Pink Yarrow (Achillea millefolium 'Oertel's Rose'
Right: in summer, Right: in fallIm not much of a flower arranger but I managed to poke themall in vases using a bit of the thrill, fill and spill motif and I can say Ireally like the results. I didnt need something that looks natural but onlythe natural plants themselves.
Leaves are starting to turn colors and beginning to fall around our landscapes.
Leaves contain a blend of nutrients that are beneficial for your yard and shrubs. Someof the simplest and most economical uses for leaves are: free fertilizer, mulch and nutrient rich compost.
Photo Credit: Pexels~ Mow into your lawn:The leaves into the lawn using a mulching mower so the leaf pieces fall down between the grass blades. As the leaf pieces decompose, they will release nutrients for your lawn.
Photo Credit: Michigan State University~ Mulch:
Collect the fallen leaves to spread around trees, shrubs or in the vegetable gardens as mulch. First use your mower to break them down a bit so they dont blow away. Some of the benefits of using mulch are:
1. soil temperature moderation
2. helps prevent erosion
3. reduces weeds
4. provides nutrients as it decomposes over time
Photo Credit: Pixabay
~ Compost:
Another option is to compost them, which is a bit more work but will create a nutrient-rich mix to use in your vegetable bed and yard.
Photo Credit: Clemson University
Additional Information:
CSU-mulches
CSU-Composting
MSU-Mulching-Leaves-Into-Lawns
Monday, October 11, 2021 Getting your Poinsettia Plant ready for the upcoming holidays By Joyce DAgostinoPhoto: Kansas State University
If you have a Poinsettia plant from last year that is still in good condition, you can follow a few tips to get it ready to show its colors for the holiday season.
These colorful plants are from the Euphorbia family of plants which are native to Mexico and can last for several years with proper care. They cant tolerate freezing temperatures so during the winter months they can be used as houseplants and in the warmer months, can be placed outside out of direct sunlight and used as a patio plant. Once the summer season is ending, you can refresh your plant by repotting it and bring it inside to prepare it for the colder months indoors.
Bracts are the leaves of poinsettia that change
color depending on light exposure.
Photo: University of Minnesota Extension
What are often called the petals of these plants are actually bracts which are colorful characteristic leaves. Poinsettias are often known for their brilliant red bracts, but due to creative breeding many color variations and patterns can now be found.
Photo: Courtesy of Pesches Garden Center
In order to have your poinsettia rebloom for the holidays, you must give them a period of darkness. According to the Colorado State Extension bulletin 7-412 the following steps are recommended Starting about October 1, it also needs at least 14 hours of uninterrupted darkness each night at temperatures between 60 and 70F. Stray light of any kind (street lights, pool lights or lamps) could delay or entirely halt the reflowering process. The dark treatment should last until color shows in the bracts (approximately Thanksgiving). Some modern cultivars may show color as much as two weeks before Thanksgiving. Continue fertilizing and watering to encourage good growth. You should use a wastebasket or box that fits over the plant to ensure that it is blocking the light properly.
Colorado State University Extension
Refer to the publications below to learn more about poinsettias and to help guide you through the care of your plant.
Colorado State University:CSU-Poinsettia-Fact-Sheet-7-412
Penn State Extension:Choosing and Caring for your Poinsettia
University of Minnesota Extension:Growing and Caring for the Poinsettia
Thursday, October 7, 2021 Intergenerational Gardening by Tasha ZollerAll photos: Tasha Zoller
Its back to school and fall is awonderful time to plant! Many communities are celebrating September with a lookat our creation and its a perfect opportunity to teach kids about gardening,farming, and the soil that supports our world.
If you and some kids you know arecraving some planting inspiration take a look at the following high interestchildrens books found in the Jefferson County Public Library system. Thesebooks'formats are attractive and easy touse. They use engaging language, larger text, colorful layouts, and clearphotographs to explain basic scientific information. Most have a Table ofContents, Glossary, and an Index. Some containadditional information about the books subject matter and websites to explore.
Green Gardening and Composting
by Molly Aloian, from The Green Scene series,2014,Crabtree Publishing Co., New York, NY, crabtreebooks.com
This is a great introductory book foryoung kids and elementary students who want to learn how to be environmentallyfriendly gardeners. It focuses on sustainable practices and promotes smallscale gardening, such as rooftop gardening, without using pesticides. The bookalso has quick tip sections for kids to take action encouraging readers tostart gardening using the principles of reduce, reuse, and recycle.
byRuth Owen, from Green Collar Careers series,2010,Crabtree Publishing Co., New York, NY crabtreebooks.com
For the older grade school student,this exciting book asks readers to think about careers that "reflect theissues that are important to us. Namely, the care and healing of our planet.Topics include what organic farming is and how its different from corporateagriculture, fair trade food production, fun career profiles offarmers, bakers, and chefs around the world, and some hot-button issues like genetically modified foods, intensive livestock farming, use of syntheticfertilizers and pesticides, and climate change affecting farming.
A delightfully illustrated storybookabout Jaydens faith in finding nature in the middle of the big city. With hisfriend, Mr. Curtis, who happens to work from a wheelchair, Jayden builds amagical secret fort garden amongst the buildings and roads next to his apartmentcomplex. The back of the book contains notes from and about theauthor and the illustrator, Ken Daley, including a little information aboutfamiliar plants, insects, and birds as well as projects to Invite Nature inwith Recycled Crafts.
From Bulb to Tulipby Lisa Owings, from Start to Finish Second Series,2015,Lerner Publishing Group, Inc. Minneapoilis, MN, lernerbooks.comFrom purchase to planting to blooming,this book builds anticipation for the youngster willing to patiently wait foran explosion of color in spring. This book offers a bit about how tulips grow,fade, and store energy to bloom year after year.
Soil by RebeccaFaulkner, from Geology Rocks! series,2008,Raintree, Chicago, IL, raintreelibrary.com
If your child wants to dig in to thefundamentals of farming and gardening this book is an excellent place to start.From a geologic perspective, it covers what soil is, how its made, and what itneeds to be healthy. There are lively, clearly labeled diagrams and maps whicheffectively explain scientific concepts. The book also reviews problems withcurrent large-scale agriculture practices.
You guessed it, another book aboutwhere soil comes from and its written for younger children. It has detailedphotos of different soil environments and close-up diagrams of soil sectionsincluding insects, worms, and microbes. There is also a Science Lab outlininghow kids can get up close and personal with their own soil samples.
Soils by AndreaRivera, from Zoom In on Rocks and Minerals series,2018,Abdo Consulting Group, Inc., abdopublishing.com
Though this basic book is for earlyreaders it is broad in its scope. It touches on interesting yet less obviousaspects of soil such as technology, engineering, art, and math.
Lookout Mountain Nature Center
All photos: Matthew Solano
During my career as a volunteer firefighter, I have seen firsthandhow hardening homes (e.g., fire resistant roofs, siding, decks, etc.) canincrease the likelihood that a home will survive a WUI fire. Equally important was the extent to whichhomeowners provided defensible space near their home by thinning trees andother vegetation on their property. Asgardeners and landscapers, these efforts can be significantly enhanced bycareful consideration of what plants are planted in hazard zones. In general,the planting of ignition resistant plants and maintenance of landscaped areasare key components to helping emergency responders save homes during WUI fires.Developing a Firewise demonstration garden provides an ideal opportunity forWUI homeowners to see how low-ignition plants can be incorporated into theirlandscape.
Site Assessment
Initial steps to incorporate principles of Firewise defensiblespace included close examination of the building adjacent to the demonstrationgarden to identify measures needed to reduce or remove existing flammable plantmaterials within five feet of the building sides. The building itself is sided withnon-flammable stucco and wall rock material which were strong factors indetermining if any existing plants within this zone present a hazard. While pruning and shovel pruning of someplants will be required, the building is bordered by a 5-10 foot wide gravelpath which is a major factor in reducing the probability of conflagration inthe ember hazard zone closest to the building.In addition, the site was assessed to determine the ambientsunlight and naturally available moisture in each microclimate. This process was informed by noting theexisting native plants inhabiting areas immediately adjacent to the site. For example, sun-loving and drought tolerantSolidage misouriensis (Missouri goldenrod,) Heterotheca fulcrata (false goldenaster,) and Artemisia lanulosa (Louisiana sage) were growing well in areasseveral feet from the building. Less drought tolerant and shade tolerantAchillea lanulosa (wooly yarrow,) Oenethera elata (tall evening primrose) andMondara fistulas (horsemint) were growing in cooler areas with less light andcloser to the drip line of the building.Existing Ribes spp. (currant,) Yucca glauca (soapweed yucca,) andChrysothamnus spp. (rabbitbrush) bushes were located within the area to bedeveloped and will be an important component of the demonstration garden.Almost all of these plants are listed in the CSU Extension Fact Sheet entitled Fire-ResistantLandscaping 6.303 located here: https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/natural-resources/fire-resistant-landscaping-6-303/.Initial Site Preparation
This summer all three areas of the demonstration garden were preparedby removal of existing undesirable plants for example native grasses and annualweeds from all areas and solarization of the full sun area of the garden. Native plants that will likely beincorporated into a new garden design were not removed.Plant Selection
In determining which plants would beused in the demonstration garden three critical criteria were used: All plantsmust have all three of these:
Have low-ignition/fire-resistant traits (perCSU Extension Fact Sheet entitled Fire-Resistant Landscaping - 6.303)
Meetright-plant/right-place criteria including survivability above 7,500elevation
Whethera Colorado native and non-native plant, it must have low-water and lowmaintenance requirements.
Current plans to complete the installation of the FirewiseDemonstration Garden include improving hardscapes in the area, plantingselected native and non-native plants and placement of non-flammable mulcheswithin all areas within five feet of the building. It will be a busy spring, but we hope to beopen for visitors in early May, 2022.
Labels:Artemisia lanulosa,false golden aster,fire,fire resistant,firewise,Heterotheca fulcrata,Lookout Nature Center,Louisiana sage,Missouri goldenrod,Solidage misouriensis,Wildland Urban Interface,WUI Thursday, September 30, 2021 Iron Chlorosis by Vicky VahlingLilac leafPhoto by Vicky Vahling
I have lived in my house for 20 years and have never reallyspent any time maintaining my Lilac bush. This spring I pruned all the deadbranches out and dug out all the new suckers that had started to get out ofhand. The Lilac bush looked great and was really starting to flourish until themiddle of summer when the leaves started turning yellow on all the new growthwith the leaf veins staying green. Then the leaves started to turn brown aroundthe edges and began dropping from the plant.Lilac leaves
Photo: Vicky Vahling
First, I made sure that I hadnt over watered it and dug ahole twelve inches deep about two feet away from the base of the bush. Therewas no pooling of water so that told me that it was not being over watered. Istarted doing research on the CSU Extension website that led me to believe thatmy Lilac bush had iron chlorosis. Chlorosis means lack of iron. One of themain causes of lack of iron is a high pH level of the soil. High pH reduces ironavailability. Colorado soils are generally high in iron, however the soils aremostly alkaline causing most of the iron to be in an insoluble form not usableto plants.
I purchased a liquid iron chelate and followed theinstructions on the bottle. It recommended 10 tablespoons per gallon of waterand to use four gallons for a four to five foot plant. I dug four holes aboutsix inches deep and two feet out from the base of the plant and poured in thesolution. You can also dig a type of trench around the bush and pour the iron solutioninto the trench. A preventative way of helping your plants before they get ironchlorosis is with an iron spray. Using iron sprays should be done in coolerweather, preferably during spring and not during the heat of the summer. Youmust be careful when using an iron spray because it will stain sidewalks andother surfaces red.
Ive had no other trouble with any of my other plants ortrees, but this lilac bush is in a location all by itself in the back of theyard. Maple, oak and aspen are just a few of the locally used trees that candevelop iron chlorosis. Since I have quite a bit of iron chelate remaining Imgoing to wait until next spring and spray the bushes to help prevent thishappening again.
CSU has several sources for more information about ironchlorosis here:
https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/weeds-cultural-problems/2121-iron-chlorosis-trees/
https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/weeds-cultural-problems/2115-iron-chlorosis/
Photo: Joyce D'Agostino
Its that time of year when pumpkins and winter squash are reaching their peak maturity. These vegetables are not only highly nutritious, but they make wonderful fall decoration displays.
Squash, pumpkin and gourds are in the same genus Cucurbita. Squash includes both a summer types like zucchini and yellow squash and the winter varieties such as butternut and acorn squashes. The summer squash tends to have thinner skins and grow from late spring until late summer. Winter squash and pumpkins are planted in the spring but can take up to 90-100 days to mature.
Pumpkin, Winter Luxury
Photo: Joyce D'Agostino
Before harvesting, it is important to test the skin of your pumpkin or winter squash to see if it is ready. One easy way is known as the thumbnail test, where you lightly push your fingernail into the skin of the fruit. If your nail easily pierces the skin, then it is not ready to harvest. Once it is difficult to push your nail into the skin of the pumpkin or squash, that is a good indicator that it is mature. The stems of the pumpkin or squash should also turn from a lighter shade to a dark green or brown. Harvest before a hard freeze.
Pumpkin, Jack B Little
Photo: Joyce D'Agostino
When harvesting, take care not to cut into the fruit. If you do happen to accidentally damage one, just plan to use that one sooner than the others, or cook the pulp or pieces and freeze. Once harvested, you can gently wash and dry each and allow them to cure in a warm area for a few days out of the direct sun and with good air circulation. They can then be placed in a cool dry area such as a basement for storage.
Even if you didnt grow your own pumpkin or winter squash this year, check the farmers markets or grocery stores often they have a good selection as well and many will keep well in storage. And if you carve your pumpkin for Halloween, be sure to save and roast the seeds for snacking, they are also very nutritious.
Pumpkin and Gourds
Photo: Joyce D'Agostino
The following bulletins will give you good advice on growing, harvesting and storing these important vegetables:
Utah Extension-pumpkin-nutrition
CSU-storage-of-home-grown-vegetables
CSU-pumpkins-squash-melons
CSU-storage-home-grown-vegetables
CSU-PlantTalk-harvesting-pumpkins
Labels:gourds,harvesting pumpkins,Joyce DAgostino,pumpkin storage,Pumpkins Monday, September 20, 2021 Top Ten List for Growing Garlic by Briana GerouPhoto: Briana Gerou
I like to try new crops each year to keep things interesting. This year, I grew garlic and it was a huge success. In this blog, I will share the top ten reasons you should try growing garlic.
Top Ten List for Growing Garlic10. Easy to plant! Just plop a clove in the ground about three inches deep and six inches apart. Place the clove so the pointed end is facing up. Garlic prefers well drained, loose soil in a full sun location.
9. Rodents, bugs and various other garden wreckers avoid garlic! I had nothing mess with my garlic, and I live in an area with a ton of wildlife.
8. It magically pops up in the spring when you are busy planting everything else. Garlic only needs to be watered in the spring once every 3 to 5 days. It is low maintenance and looks pretty!
Photo: Briana Gerou
7. Thousands of unique varieties from all over the world. Garlic either has a soft neck (most grocery stores carry this kind) or a hard neck. I recommend growing hard neck varieties in Colorado because they are more cold hardy and they also produce a scape, see #1! I have had great luck growing a variety called Music! Large heads and great flavor. You can grow garlic cloves from organic grocery stores like Natural Grocers but not conventional. I recommend ordering cloves from a garlic farm like Filaree.
6. It puts your mulched fall leaves to use by covering the newly planted bed. Garlic loves to be covered with a thick layer of mulched leaves. It keeps the cloves cozy during the winter. It also provides organic nutrients that are slow-released over time.
5. You can grow about 90 heads of garlic in a single 8x4 bed. I kept my rows about 10 inches apart but you can reduce this if you wish. Keep in mind that your bed will be occupied with the garlic from October until late July.
4. After curing, garlic will keep for months! Curing garlic is pretty simple. After harvesting from the ground, you lay or hang the garlic in a well-ventilated area that is away from direct sunlight and heat. It needs to dry for several weeks, then it will be ready to clean and use.
3. People LOVE receiving garlic as a gift. Every time I've given someone a head of garlic, they get very happy. I have also gotten a ton of positive feedback.
2. Growing a crop of garlic means you are already stocked to replant the next season. I am going to use my biggest cloves from this year's harvest to plant this Fall. I don't have to order new cloves to plant! You always want to plant the largest cloves that you have. They will grow the biggest heads of garlic.
Photo: Briana Gerou
1. Garlic scapes! Hard neck garlic produces a garlic scape in the late spring. It is basically the flowering bulb of the plant. Once the scape curls around, you want to clip it off as low as you can. This way, the plant can use its energy making a bigger garlic bulb instead of growing a flower. Take the scapes and make a pesto! Or you can just chop them up in a stir fry.
Labels:Briana Gerou,Garlic Thursday, September 16, 2021 Making Your Own Compost by Anne KinneyPhoto: Anne Kinney
Making your own compost is fairly simple and gives you the added benefit of being able to enrich your soil. You can do that with bagged compost but by making your own you also prevent large amounts of biodegradable material from being tossed into the landfill.
Begin by finding or making a bin with boards, fencing, chicken wire (similar to the one pictured) or by purchasing a compost tumbler. Many types are available. Search the internet or retailers for this item.
Next step is to make layers (in roughly equal amounts by volume and in small pieces) of:
1- nitrogen sources (aka greens) like grass clippings, vegetable scraps, and coffee grounds (though brown in color are a source of nitrogen)
2- carbon sources (aka browns) like autumn leaves,small amounts of brown paper, sawdust from UNTREATED wood, and straw
3- small shovels of soil add beneficial soil microbes to the mix
4- add enough water to make it feel like a wrung-out sponge
Turn often with a fork - about once a week - to aerate and re-water as necessary to maintain that wrung-out sponge feel
Note: if you spot this larvae in the pile dont be alarmed. It is actually your composting friend! They love rotting fruits and vegetables and will make quicker work of the whole process.Bumble Flower Beetle larvae
Photo: Iowa State University
Some things NOT to compost
1- meat, oil, fat or grease
2- dairy products
3- diseased plant material
4- weeds that go to seed
5- sawdust from treated wood
6- feces from meat eaters- e.g. cats, dogs, or humans
7- manure - even from livestock as most compost piles dont get hot enough to kill off harmful bacteria. e.g. e-coli.
Your compost is ready to go in about three months when most of the material is unrecognizable as the original.
Your finished compost can be used to improve a new bed being prepared for planting by adding about an inch on top of the existing soil and working it in or to amend back fill for plants from a nursery.
See also CSU Fact sheet #7.212 for additional information on composting.
Labels:Anne Kinney,compost,Composting,Make your own compost Monday, September 13, 2021 Gardening with Kids: Collecting and Storing Seeds by Carol MartinPhoto: Carol Martin
Autumn can be a challenging time for gardening with kids. The excitement of Spring planting has long faded and the start of a new school year is top of mind. However, collecting seeds from the garden is a fun, relatively easy task that can re-engage kids of almost any age.
The key to collecting seeds with kids is choosing seeds that are easily collected and saved.
Some factors to consider:
~ Seed size Especially with small children, choosing plants with large seeds makes it easy for them to collect and handle the seeds. Two of my favorites are sun flowers and hyacinth bean. Sun flowers have large seed heads that can be removed and allowed to dry. Hyacinth bean plants have seed pods that are two to three inches long and contain three to four seeds each.
~ Hybrid/Non-hybrid Its best to avoid hybrid varieties of plants. Seeds from hybrid varieties produce a mixture of plant types and will yield plants that are inferior to the parent.
~ Self-pollinating Plants that self-pollinate such as tomatoes and peppers have the best success rate for seed saving. Their flowers self-pollinate and their seeds dont require any special handling. Seeds from self-pollinated plants will grow into plants that are true to the parent. You should avoid saving seeds from cross-pollinated plants that have separate male and female flowers. Examples are corn and vine crops such as pumpkin, zucchini and cucumber. One year we collected seeds from our zucchini and planted them the following Spring. We ended up with what we called franken-squash. They looked like a cross between a cucumber and a zucchini and were completely tasteless.
Collecting Seeds
For plants with seed pods such as peas or beans, allow the pods to ripen and dry. The pods will darken and you will be able to hear the seeds rattling inside. At that time the kids can pick the pods off the plant. The pods should be spread out to dry completely indoors. Once completely dry, the kids can open the pods and remove the seeds.
Plants with pulp like tomatoes can be a bit messy when extracting the seeds. That can actually make this a very fun activity for kids. Its recommended you do this outdoors. Cut the fully ripened tomatoes in half and scoop out the seeds along with the pulp surrounding them. Put the seeds and pulp in a glass jar along with some water. Stir or swirl the mixture twice a day for a few days until the seeds sink to the bottom. Pour off the liquid, rinse the seeds and spread them out on paper towels until they are completely dry.
Photo: Carol Martin
Storing Seeds
You will store each type of seed in a separate envelope. Older kids can write the name of the plant and the date the seeds were collected on each envelope. Younger kids might enjoy decorating the envelopes and/or drawing pictures of the plants. Place the envelopes containing the seeds in a tightly sealed glass container. Keep the seeds dry and cool until you are ready to plant them the following year.
Sources:
Saving Seed - CSU 7.602
Saving vegetable seeds | UMN Extension
Labels:Carol Martin,Collecting Storing Seeds,Gardening with Kids Older PostsHomeSubscribe to:Posts (Atom)
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